1 July, Amsterdam: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly.

The Good:
The flight into Amsterdam was relatively good, (aside from some sort of plumbing issue that bathed the cabin in a foul odor every ten minutes or so), smooth and seemingly quick for a trans -Atlantic flight. Our progress from plane to taxi was quick too, seeming almost too easy. A short ride took us to the Centrum area of Amsterdam and our hotel, The Golden Tulip. In spite of the hokey, tourist-trap sounding name, the hotel was anything but. The room was typically small by American standards but modern, clean and comfortable. We took the obligatory canal boat tour within an hour of arrival, mostly to pass time until check-in and in large part to spend jet-lag time off of our feet as we could slip into unconsciousness at any moment.

The most desirable museums are all closely located, (a notable exception would be the Sex Museum, appropriately located in the Red Light District to be covered later in the post), and for art lovers a must see. The Rijksmuseum was undergoing some construction so we passed on that one but spent some time enjoying the Van Gogh Museum. It is really amazing to actually see the masterpieces directly in front of you; It makes you feel like an active participant in history rather than an extraneous observer.
I absolutely loved the incredible use of pedal power by the local populace. Carter noticed before I did that there appeared to be no obesity at all. Since there were tourists scattered throughout the area, this seems more indicative of Europe as a whole than just Amsterdam. The cliché of tall, healthy Dutch women cycling through town is a reality and one I found especially pleasant. Notable also is their use of public transport. I found myself wondering why on Earth Tampa especially does not use electric trams this effectively. Dale Mabry would be the largest artery and would reduce the traffic by at least 30-50%. Absolutely ridiculous.
The food is healthy and excellent. Our favorite place turned out to be the Soup Kitchen, a soup and sandwich cafe. I believe the writers of Sienfeld stole the idea of the incredible soup shop from this place-- without the Nazi. A restaurant named Humphreys was directly next to our hotel and featured a three-course, fixed but selective menu. Choosing one of five each from the starters, main courses and desserts. Darby take note: Carter ate snails, I have photographic proof. Open air restaurants along the many courtyards are abundant.


The Bad:
Okay, in this case we mean BAD as in naughty. The hotel is located right in the center of the canal zone which means it is also located amongst the “Coffee Shops” and the brothels. Coffee shop seems to be synonymous with marijuana shop and the distinctive odor of cannabis wafts from the doorways. What you do NOT see are stoned zombies walking around aimlessly, no one dealing on the street corners and there was no violence. Whether this is a result of strict local control to ensure a robust tourist industry or the coffee shops acting as a natural container is unclear as we, of course, did not partake of their hospitality. The famous Red Light District was also a close stroll from our hotel and again, we did not partake. The women were much more presentable than expected. One gets the impression that, although prostitution is undoubtedly taking place, the Red Light District is as much a production piece for the tourists. In essence, these two elements should not dissuade you from visiting Amsterdam and are a very small part of the overall experience.

The Ugly:
Amsterdam is filthy. There is no other way to put it. Trash accumulates in the streets and the canals. Not large piles set aside for later disposal, but scattered wherever it is dropped, and it is, in volume. There are public trash containers available but not nearly enough and the containers are not large. Not that this in itself would solve the litter problem as we seemed to be in the meager minority actually taking the effort to use the ones we could find. I can not help but wonder how much the Socialist nature of the country contributes to this. Little incentive to find employment in the waste disposal industry and the “If it feels good, do it” mentality that may translate to “drop it wherever you feel.” Regardless of the reason, it seriously detracts from an otherwise nice stay.
In summary, a fun place to visit. Those more physically able will enjoy walking the canals but the efficient mass transit systems allow all to enjoy the city. Go for the art and the novelty but two days are more than enough to see the best of this city. Watch where you walk; Trash, cyclists and trams are hazards running from annoying to deadly.