When dreaming of old, beautiful European cities I was always dreaming of Prague, I just did not know it until now. Ancient castles? Check. Flowing river spanned by ornate, stone bridges? Check. Elaborate churches, ruins emerging from the hillsides, quaint sidewalk cafes? Czech, Czech, Czech. Beautiful women-- Czech-mate. (I wish)
Our adventure had an inauspicious start from the train station as we struggled to find our next connection, find anyone who spoke any form of Czenglish, or get enough change to buy a subway ticket. Vendors worldwide have mastered the art of insisting on a purchase to receive change while ensuring the prices are offset just enough to require two or more individual purchases to arrive at the desired amount. Add to that the Hurculean task of converting Czech Krones to US dollars (or even Euros for Christ's sake) and you get a feel for our frustration. We then had to cross what Carter named as the Bumgarten, a park just outside the station where the homeless made their homes. (and bathrooms) Oh but it is all worth the cost once you get to the city. The city is a wonderful mess. Let me explain.
It is said the city was originally built to confuse invaders. When the Germans invaded during WWII, the Czechs took down all street signs and gave inaccurate directions when asked to great effect. (We got such confusing directions ourselves that I believe we were mistaken for the last squad of German infantry-- the shortly cropped blondish hair and blue eyes probably did not help). The streets run in odd angles often ending abruptly. And the buildings are close to each other making it almost impossible to get your bearings unless you know the city as a native. But the architecture is great and the details are diverse and interesting. Our local contact, Tod Shaw, tells me there are more cubist structures in Prague than any other city in Europe. Having little experience in cubist architecture, I took his word for it.
Speaking of Tod Shaw, he very generously took most of a day to show us parts of Prague most people do not see. We had lunch in a small, hidden cafe that was actually a microbrewery as well. Again, we would never have known of its existence without a guide. Throughout the entire afternoon Tod kept us enthralled with historical facts and personal experiences. Tod had always been personable and interesting with a rapier wit and he had not changed much from my memories. It was one of our best days this entire trip and I am indebted to him for his hospitality and friendship. Thank you, Tod.
Most of the “must-sees” can “be-seen” from the observation tower. Getting an over-city view will pay dividends later when negotiating the city from the street level. The views are breath-taking but then it may have something to do with the climb. It is not for the faint of heart or fragile of body. There is a small elevator intended for the handicapped but I did not get specific rules of its use. From the base of the tower you can walk along the Hunger Wall to the various sites close-by. Obviously Prague Castle is a prime destination but there are many clustered about in the same area so go with your instincts and be flexible. There are plenty of sidewalk cafes to choose from and all we tried were excellent. The food was good too.
Prague is a city that every well traveled person should see. I recommend an American based hotel chain to alleviate some of the culture shock and provide a safe haven. A leisurely week would give you enough time to see the city and take a couple of day-trips outside for the rest. They plan to adopt the Euro in 2012 which will help immensely. The local food is hearty and varied so be adventurous. I will remember Prague fondly until my next visit.
On to Vienna.
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